"A COURSE IN WOOD TURNING"
By ARCHIE S. MILTON,OTTO K. WOHLERS
CONTENTS
CHAPTER I.- Introduction
CHAPTER II. - The Lathe
CHAPTER III. - Wood Turning Tools
CHAPTER IV. - Spindle Turning
CHAPTER V. - Tool Processes in Spindle Turning
CHAPTER VI.- Oval Turning
CHAPTER VII. - Duplicate Turning
CHAPTER VIII - Finishing and Polishing
CHAPTER IX - Face-Plate and Chuck Turning
CHAPTER X - Tool Processes in Face-Plate and Chuck Turning
CHAPTER XI - Spiral Turning
FINISHING AND POLISHING
To get a high and lasting polish on wood, the work must be first sanded
so as to be perfectly smooth. In addition to this, open grained wood,
such as oak, must be properly filled with a wood filler. If properly
sharpened tools have been used very little sanding is required, and then
worn sandpaper should be used as it does not cut into the work as new
paper cuts. Remember sandpaper is not to be used as a tool in cutting
down stock when working to dimensions. In using old sandpaper run the
lathe at a moderate speed to avoid burning the wood, especially on
square or round fillets. Keep the edges of the work sharp and do not
wear them round. In using new sandpaper use a fine grit (00 or 0) and
move the paper from one end of the work to the other slowly, so that no
scratches result on the surface of the work.
The work may be finished by one of two methods. In the first method as
in finishing ordinary cabinet work, the pieces should be stained and
filled. In applying filler, run the lathe at the slowest speed after the
material has dried sufficiently to rub into the pores of the wood. If
the highlights are to be brought out, as in the case of oak, stain and
then give a light coat of shellac, and apply the filler after the
shellac is dry. The shellac keeps the dark filler from staining the
flakes of the oak darker, and the pores of the wood fill in as before.
The pores become darker than the flakes, and at the same time a smooth
surface is produced. After the filler has hardened the wood may be waxed
or varnished.
The second method, or French polishing, is rather difficult to apply and
requires a little skill. A close grained wood, like maple, will be found
more satisfactory for the beginner. An open grained wood may be filled
in the ordinary way, or the grain may be filled by rubbing into the
pores of the wood a combination of shellac, rotten stone or pumice, oil
and alcohol. Rotten stone is used for dark wood and pumice is used for
light wood. The wood may be left in the natural or stained as in the
first method. The mixture of shellac, rotten stone, oil and alcohol, is
applied to the work with a pad made of cotton waste, wrapped in cheese
cloth to keep it from sticking to the work. It should be about 1½" in
diameter and ½" thick. Hold the pad over the mouth of a bottle of
shellac and tip the bottle so that the shellac comes in contact with the
pad. The shellac will remain clean in a bottle and will be handy. The
mouth of the shellac bottle should be about 1" in diameter and should be
dipped once. Do likewise with a bottle, having a mouth ½" in diameter,
containing alcohol. This should be dipped twice allowing the alcohol to
dilute the shellac. Then drop on a couple of drops of oil and rub over
the pad evenly; this aids in distributing the shellac properly and keeps
the pad from sticking to the work. A bottle may also be used for this.
For the rotten stone use a pepper shaker so that it may be sifted on the
work as needed.
When the mixture has been applied to the pad, hold the pad against the
work lightly at first, until most of the moisture has been worked out of
it, and then gradually increase the pressure until the pad is almost
dry. In putting on the first coat, use more shellac and alcohol and just
enough oil at all times to prevent the pad from sticking to the work.
However, the pad should not contain as much shellac that it can be
squeezed out with the fingers. When the pad is dry, another mixture is
applied, and where open grained wood is used, rotten stone, or pumice
stone, is sprinkled on the work to gradually fill up the pores and to
build up a smooth surface. Run the lathe at a low speed, depending on
the size of the piece that is being polished. Allow the first coat to
dry before applying a second coat for, if too much is put on at any one
time, the heat generated in the rubbing will cause the shellac to pull,
and it will form rings by piling up. These rings may be worked out in
two ways, either by a slight pressure of the pad on the rings or by
cutting them with alcohol applied to the pad. If too much alcohol is
used it will cut through the shellac and remove what has already been
rubbed on. If at any time too much shellac is used it will pile up and
form rings. Too much rotten stone will cut down the polish and by
absorbing the mixture will leave the pad dry. If too much oil is used
the polish will become dull after a day or two.
After the first coat has hardened apply the second, but use less shellac
and more alcohol and just enough oil to prevent the pad from sticking.
This may be done by dipping the tip of a finger in the oil and spreading
it over the pad. The entire mixture should be so that only a dampness
can be felt on the pad. As the process goes on less oil and shellac are
used. All oil must be removed when applying the last coat, or the piece
will lose its polish. All the pores should be filled, and no rings
should be on the finished work. Where a natural finish is desired, apply
a coat of boiled linseed oil twelve hours before the work is to be
polished. This will bring out the grain and will also aid in applying
the first coat; no oil need then be used in the first coat.
A great amount of practice and patience is required to get a first class
polish. Polishing can only be learned by experience. Correct your
troubles in properly proportioning the mixture. Never use too much
shellac as it will build up too fast and will not harden, thus causing
rings; or it will pull and catch to the pad, thus forming bunches. The
purpose of alcohol is mainly to dilute the shellac and to prevent
against putting it on the work too fast, but care must be taken not to
use too much alcohol to cut the shellac entirely. The oil helps to
distribute the shellac evenly, but it must be removed when finishing the
last coat, or the polish will not remain. It also helps to keep the pad
from sticking to the work.
It is impossible to obtain a polish that will be as lasting and rich by
any method other than the one described. For success it is essential to
learn the proportions of the mixture and to acquire skill in applying
the materials by using exactly the right pressure and the right movement
of the pad.
