THE
BOTTOM SECTION.
Overview
First there is the base plinth onto and into which sits the
bottom carcass construction. The carcass consists of two side
panels connected by rails, floor boards and back lining sheets
subsequently fitted, the two doors were then made up and hung
and finally a one piece top attached. Note
in fig. 0552 the right angle section glued into the
leading door edge that acts as a dust guard when the doors
are closed.
THE BOTTOM HALF!
See fig. 0531 for front elevation
view.
Four sections of 5 x 31/2" were cut to length for the
upright 'posts' and four short sections to complete the horizontal
framing. Two No. 20 biscuits were cut for each jointing section,
then on the bench saw cut 12mm panel rebate slots (to accept
the flat side panels) on all four pieces. Then I marked out
the deep cut away pattern, which dominates the cabinet from
the front view, and because I do not have a bandsaw I used
the Industrial Carbide Woodcarver to shape down to the line
and cleaned up with a grinder-sanding pad. (I could have used
the Woodcarver™ instead)
Next, again using the IND200, I mimicked the effect of a carved
finish to texture these upright 'posts', (see
fig. 0545) Just glance lightly off the surface with
sharp cutters for a clean finish.
So now I have eight heavy sections of carcass timber all shaped,
biscuit cut, panel rebated, sanded and ready to glue together.
Next I glued up the two large plain panels to fit inside these
two side frames and trimmed to size. Now I glued these two
frames together with the panels inside! These are also well shown in fig. 0545.
I always double coat both surfaces when using P.V.A. (or yellow
aliphatic) glue. I also wet up and sash clamp as quickly as
possible because pine absorbs the water from the glue much
faster than hardwoods. If too much water is absorbed BEFORE
the sash clamps are tightened then a weaker joint will result.
This is because the glue hardens as the water is absorbed,
the longer you leave then the more the glue has set BEFORE
you tighten the clamps - this is no good!
Be well prepared when you glue anything! Have all the timbers
laid out in order of glue wetting, have the biscuits counted
out, clean up cloths to hand (damp if working with P.V.A's)
set square ready to check for square and I turn the radio
out so I can concentrate! Allow plenty of space so I often
glue up on the flat concrete floor with plastic sheets spread
to catch glue squeeze out.
The correct amount of glue is when you tighten the clamps
a thin continuous line of glue should squeeze out between
the joints, wipe this off.
The next step is now to connect the two side panels with four
rails. These again I only butted and used double No: 20 biscuits
as joints. Before I glued them in place, cut a suitable rebate
to snugly receive the back lining boards and floorboards.
These kinds of rebates I simply bench saw out setting the
fence for the desired distance from the blade and setting
the bench saw blade at the correct depth (mine is an adjustable
depth cut).
On a level and true surface (concrete floor!) I now glued
and sash clamped the two end panels together with the four
rails. Use your square to check for square! This is now very
important.
This is the carcass construction now complete (carcass means
main frame construction into which panels, doors, draws etc
are then fitted) Next I made the base or plinth to stand this
carcass onto (and into). I measured the outside dimensions
of the base carcass to get the correct measurements for the
base.
THE BASE
Taking 8" x 2" and cut to exact length to allow
for butt joints and marked the curved bracket foot profile
on the two short sides and front piece (see again photo 0521),
having no jig or bandsaw, I cut to the line with the Woodcarver™,
sanded with the grinder sanding pad (here after referred to
as "sanding pad"), routered a concave pattern to
the front edge with a roller bit. Cut a rebate on the bench
saw to house the bottom half of the cabinet on the top internal
edge of the four base pieces. (See again
fig. 0521)
Used double No 20 biscuits to join the four sections. Clamp
to a flat surface to ensure no buckle, used sash clamps checking
for the vital square necessary.
When dried, glued four 4" x 4" blocks in each internal
corner to strengthen the structure and take the weight off
the bracket frame.
Glued and pinned a cross brace running from front to back,
this is concealed at the front by the dip in the curving pattern.
If this was not enough I then pocket screwed and glued four
corner cross braces. Non of this work will ever be seen!
Floor Boards and Back Lining Boards
Next I thicknessed the floor boards to 15mm and bench sawed
a simple lap joint so the boards would close without gaps
and pined and punched the boards into their rebate. I repeated
this for the back lining boards but thicknessed them down
to 12mm and pinned them in place working from the back of
the cabinet
BOTTOM
DRAWS
I always build any draw recess first, take the measurements
and then build the draws! Fig. 0532 shows how I created the draw receiver framework. In truth
this was a little awkward as I built this into the existing
space, better pre-planning would have allowed for a more thought
out solution. The draws were an after thought! See also the
closer detail of the draw slides in fig. 0533.
Note that on top of the drawer box I installed more planking
on which sits the loose wine racks as
shown in fig. 0532 also fig. 0536 is looking immediately
into this recess above the left hand draw set.
Next
I constructed the four drawers. Fig.
0539 shows one of the four drawers.
From an aesthetic point of view I should have cut dovetails
(everyone loves dovetails) but I defend the use of a lap joint
to attach the draw fronts to the sides because the glue area
is large and freshly cut pine makes a very strong glue joint.
In addition, these draws are well-supported on wide and waxed
draw slides (candle wax) and in addition they will only ever
hold table linen which is lightweight.
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Reprinted
with permission from http://www.arbortech.com.au |
